Stay on St. John if you want quiet beaches, national park scenery and a town you can walk. Stay on St. Thomas if you want the airport close by, more shopping and nightlife, or you only have a day or two. For most trips of three nights or more, St. John is the better base, and St. Thomas is an easy ferry day trip. This guide compares the two islands on size, beaches, crowds, getting around and cost, then covers how to see both.
Key takeaways
- St. Thomas has the airport, the cruise port and about 42,000 residents. St. John has about 3,900, no airport and no cruise pier.
- Two-thirds of St. John is Virgin Islands National Park, which is why its best-known beaches have hillsides behind them instead of hotels.
- The islands are a 15 to 20 minute passenger ferry apart, between Red Hook and Cruz Bay, about every hour.
- For three nights or more, base on St. John and visit St. Thomas for a day. For a single day or a cruise stop, stay on St. Thomas and cross for the day.
The short answer, by trip length
- One day or a cruise stop: stay on St. Thomas and take the ferry from Red Hook to Cruz Bay for the day. The transfer from the airport to St. John takes about an hour each way, which is too much for a one-night stay.
- A three-night weekend: St. John, in Cruz Bay. You pay the transfer once, then walk to the ferry, the beach and dinner.
- Five to seven nights: St. John. A kitchen and a washer and dryer cut costs and luggage, and you can add a St. Thomas day by ferry.
How different are the two islands?
They are close together and not alike. St. Thomas is about 13 miles long and a little over 31 square miles, with 42,261 residents in the 2020 census. It has the airport, the cruise ship docks, the territory's capital at Charlotte Amalie, larger stores and more nightlife. St. John is about 7 miles by 3, roughly 20 square miles, with 3,881 residents. Two-thirds of it is Virgin Islands National Park, according to the National Park Service, so that land will not become a resort or a marina. What is left is mostly two small towns, Cruz Bay and Coral Bay.
That is the whole difference in one fact. St. John has no large hotel strips, no cruise pier and little late nightlife. Evenings mean dinner, a drink, some live music and an early night before a morning on the water.
Which island has better beaches?
St. John wins on setting. Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay and Maho Bay all sit inside the national park, so the view behind the sand is green hillside. Trunk Bay has a 225-yard underwater snorkeling trail and charges $5 per person for ages 16 and up (Recreation.gov). The park itself has no entrance fee. Maho Bay is calm and shallow and is where most visitors see sea turtles.
St. Thomas has one beach that competes on looks alone, Magens Bay, a long sheltered bay on the north side, plus smaller resort-side coves. Its beaches are busier on days when cruise ships are in port. Trunk Bay feels some of that pressure too, because day-trippers cross over, so go early or late in the day.
Crowds, pace and nightlife
St. Thomas is the livelier island: duty-free shopping in Charlotte Amalie, more restaurants and bars, and thousands of cruise passengers on ship days. St. John is slower. Restaurants are small and book up, shops close earlier, and the loudest part of the island is a few blocks of Cruz Bay on a weekend night. If you want resort service and nightlife, choose St. Thomas. If you want to hear the water, choose St. John.
Getting there and getting around
Both trips start at the St. Thomas airport (STT). For St. John, take a taxi to Red Hook (30 to 40 minutes), then the passenger ferry to Cruz Bay (15 to 20 minutes, about every hour). Check the last ferry of the day before you book flights. The full route is in our guide to getting from St. Thomas airport to Cruz Bay.
On St. Thomas you will want a car or repeated taxis, because the island is long and hilly. On St. John you can skip the car on many days if you stay in Cruz Bay: the ferry, a beach, restaurants and the Lind Point Trail are on foot, and open-air taxis run to the north shore beaches. On both islands traffic keeps to the left. See Cruz Bay without a car.
Where does the money go on each island?
- Lodging. St. Thomas has a large supply, from big resorts to condos, so more price tiers. St. John has a small supply, mostly villas and suites, so popular dates sell out earlier. Book St. John first, then flights.
- Transport. St. Thomas usually means a rental car or daily taxis. In Cruz Bay, daily transport can cost almost nothing, with a Jeep or taxis only on beach days.
- The ferry. Staying on St. John adds a passenger fare per person each way. Confirm current fares with the operator.
- Food. St. Thomas has larger grocery stores and more restaurants. On St. John a full kitchen makes the biggest difference to the cost of a week: cook breakfast and beach lunches, and spend on dinners.
How to see both islands
On a stay of several nights, base on St. John and cross to St. Thomas for a day, not the reverse. You leave your bags where they are, take a morning ferry to Red Hook, and come back before the last boat. Worth crossing for: Magens Bay, shopping in Charlotte Amalie and larger stores. If you can, pick a day with few cruise ships in port. St. Croix is about 40 miles away, so treat it as a separate trip, not a day out.
If you choose St. John
Stay in Cruz Bay for a first visit. Dolphin Suites has eight one-bedroom suites about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock and 3 minutes from the beach, each with a full kitchen and a washer and dryer, and four of them sleep up to four guests. Raintree Suites is steps from the beach. Our guide to where to stay in St. John compares Cruz Bay, Coral Bay and the lodging types, and our first-timer's guide covers documents, packing and the national park. See all nine suites or check availability for your dates.
Frequently asked questions
Is St. John or St. Thomas better?
St. John is better for quiet beaches, hiking and a slower pace, because two-thirds of it is national park. St. Thomas is better for short stays, shopping, nightlife and staying close to the airport.
How far is St. John from St. Thomas?
About 4 miles of water. The passenger ferry between Red Hook on St. Thomas and Cruz Bay on St. John takes 15 to 20 minutes and runs about every hour.
Can you do a day trip to St. John from St. Thomas?
Yes. Take a morning ferry from Red Hook, then a taxi from the Cruz Bay dock to Trunk Bay or Maho Bay, and return before the last boat. If you would rather not take a taxi, the beach in town and the Lind Point Trail to Honeymoon Beach are on foot.
Is St. John more expensive than St. Thomas?
Lodging and dining often cost more on St. John because supply is small. You can offset that by staying in Cruz Bay without a daily rental car and by cooking breakfast and lunch in a suite with a kitchen.
Does St. John have an airport or a cruise port?
No. Visitors arrive by ferry from St. Thomas, which is a large part of why the island stays quiet.
Sources
Where to stay in Cruz Bay
DGMI Properties manages two places to stay in the heart of Cruz Bay, both about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock. Dolphin Suites has eight one-bedroom suites with full kitchens that sleep 2 to 4 guests. Raintree Suites is a brand-new one-bedroom apartment for two, steps from the beach. Planning your trip? Our Plan Your Visit guide covers the ferry, groceries and what to pack.
